A Brief Moment in Time - July 2009 Full Eclipse of the sun...

Traveling could be a metaphor for life; each moment, each discovery of a burbling stream, a high plateau, a waterfall or a monastery give a short respite from the tough journey as do the short breaks from daily life, we enjoy them, refresh ourselves and then move on and go on. We can’t stay there.  

On July 20^th we, myself and some friends, journeyed on a short once in a life time journey into the Himalayas of Western Arunachal Pradesh; ‘Once in a life time’, not because of the Himalayas, but because of the date, July 22^nd a short tryst with the full Eclipse of the Sun will happen again only in 123 years.   

I had been many times to this area, each time bringing new discoveries and experiences, and many a day has been spent trekking over mountains, staying in villages, enjoying foods and interactions.  This trip was a little different – it was a personal challenge and a chance to bring friends from Shillong to an area so close yet so far from their daily life. 

Something that hits me often about North East India is how little each of the more than 200 tribal groups actually knows about each other, how little interaction they have.  There is that knowledge in the back of the head about the Khasi’s, the Monpa’s, the Konyaks or any one of the many groups of North East India, but much of it is based on heresay and stereotypes.  Chances to bring groups together in informal circumstances broadens and strengthens the unique and varied cultures of North East India, and in my estimation more interaction is needed to become appreciative of others and to continue to be proud of ones own.

My challenge started in Balukpong, the small border town between Arunachal Pradesh and Assam, a bit of a stinging point in the separation of the North East States. To the traveler an inconvenience to be scrutinized as if one is entering a different country.  I was going to ride my bicycle from Balukpong to Tawang in two days July 20^th and 21^st, rest the night of the 21^st and enjoy the total solar eclipse on the 22^nd in the high Himalayas.   

The first day gave the challenge and the reality check we needed in life, the Himalayas are not easily conquered.  My initial aim was to make it to Dirang the first day – 142 km with the majority of it up hill.  

There is little better way to enjoy the road and the beauty along it than on a bicycle, many of the turns, signs and people I likely had passed many times before in a car were now much more enjoyable and memorable, each smiling face was seen up close. The never ending amazement in my mind of the hard working women on this highway were brought so close when they smiled, waved or when one saw the children they carried.  I have always had a soft spot for the labour on this never ending construction, each year sections are finished and each year the rains, the landslides or other natural events make another section in a condition to begin again. 

By the mid afternoon I knew I was not up to the challenge, or more accurately my knee was not up to it, the slight pain increased as the climb to Bomdilla wore on my leg.  Bomdilla lies at 7000 feet and the constant up was and is likely the hardest part of the trip.  A decision to stay the night in Bomdila gave relief.   

My friend Tsering Wange of Himalayan- holidays recommended I amend my program and meet him and some friends at Sela pass for the 22^nd Solar Eclipse.  My knee told me it was the best idea, but my head still wanted to try a little more.   

The next morning, drizzling and wet, I got on my bicycle again and rode to Dirang in less than 2 hours – of course 20 or so kilometers is down hill.  A stop in Dirang for Breakfast told me that my knee would not last to go up Sela pass that day.  So I decided to pack it in, relax, enjoy and have a good experience.   When my support came in their vehicle we packed the bicycle on top and had a bath at Dirang hot springs. Some good coffee and went on for our other goal – the solar eclipse. 

We drove up to the top of Sela pass at 13,700 feet – we had a great dinner with the local army posting and slept in the Mandir at the top of the pass.  The next morning was full of excitement getting ready for the full eclipse, a little down because of the fog but hopeful anyways.  The whole process was exciting to see as the sun slowly disappeared behind the moon, slowly being eaten up, till it was a full circle and darkness came over the area, a few stars were visible and a truck coming up the pass suddenly turned on its head lights.  It was truly a great experience with the full eclipse being fully visible and the clouds and fog lifting just at the right moment. 

Much is precarious when traveling in the Himalayas, each moment is a gift.  One minute can be in full sunlight and the next covered over in fog with very little visibility. We were lucky to have this experience in our life time, seeing the systematic rotation of the Universe in all its glory. 

All in all a great trip, the Himalayas conquered me this time but I am still determined to do the trip from Balukpong on bicycle in two days.  Sitting and challenging Tsering Wange to join me in the fall of 2010 for another attempt.

Some Pics